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Tuxedo Tips
The wedding couple has many
decisions to make concerning formal wear. Several are based on
outside factors. For instance a groom's choice of dress
depends on the time of day of the ceremony, his bride's dress,
the season and their wedding's level of formality.
According to the International
Formal-wear Association the timing of the wedding makes all
the difference. In their formal wear guide weddings are
described as either contemporary or traditional. Within each
group there are sub-categories including very formal evening,
formal daytime and second and later weddings.
The guide recommends the
appropriate attire for the groom, ushers, and groomsmen,
father, ring bearer and guests under each type of affair. For
example, according to the IFA at a traditional formal evening
wedding the groom is advised to wear a black tuxedo with a
pleated white formal shirt a bow tie and a vest and cummerbund
to match the tuxedo lapels. A white dinner jacket with formal
trousers is acceptable for summer or tropical climates.
For a very formal daytime
wedding the groom should wear an updated cutaway,
usually gray with striped or matching trousers a white shirt
with a striped tie or ascot; or a tuxedo or an all gray
cutaway outfit with a wing or fold collar formal shirt and a
striped gray ascot or a four-in-hand tie. Also, traditionally
every man in the wedding party (groomsmen, ushers, fathers,
and the ring bearer) dresses alike.
Formal wear rental is the
responsibility of each groomsman although the groom or his
parents may offer to underwrite the expense. If special
accessories, ties, ascot or gloves are selected the groom pays
for them.
If a man will need to wear a
tuxedo three or four times in the next few years purchasing
one is a good investment. It only takes two or three rentals
to equal the purchase price - so with one hanging in your
closet you can always step out in style; there's no longer any
reason to demur over those invitations with Black Tie printed
in the lower right-hand corner. The price of a new tuxedo
(including only the jacket and trousers) starts around $175
and rises to the $300-500 range and higher. A formal shirt,
studs, cufflinks, tie and cummerbund are purchased
separately. Formalwear stores sell used tuxedos at
reasonable prices and many stores hold sales once or twice a
year. It's probably wisest to purchase a basic conservative
tuxedo, changing accessories to complement the occasion.
How should a tuxedo fit?
• The coat should allow free
movement of the arms and shouldn't feel snug in the armholes.
• The coat should lie smoothly across the back.
• The hem of the coat should reach to the curl of the
fingers when arms are held straight down at the sides.
• The coat sleeve should reveal a 1/2-inch of the shirt
cuff.
• The trousers should be hemmed even with the top of the
heel of the shoes in back and in front they should barely
break resting on the top of the shoes.
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